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Ammeter Reading (Read 1293 times)
Apr 26th, 2016 at 8:37am

RV7A BDU   Offline
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The ammeter reading has never worked properly since my D1000 was professionally installed two years ago. Wiring has been checked, fuses verified and a lot of head scratching has taken place. He's given up. The unit will sometimes read numbers up to 99A before it "X"s out on me. I'm pretty sure my alternator is not that big and being an amateur I have no clue what to do to get it right. I would kind of like to know if I am facing an imminent electrical failure. Anybody got a solution for me?
 
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Reply #1 - Apr 26th, 2016 at 9:12am

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Contact Dynon Avionics Technical Support - 425-402-0433 to obtain a Return Material Authorization (RMA) to have your SV-EMS-220 module checked and likely repaired.

RV7A BDU wrote on Apr 26th, 2016 at 8:37am:
The ammeter reading has never worked properly since my D1000 was professionally installed two years ago. Wiring has been checked, fuses verified and a lot of head scratching has taken place. He's given up. The unit will sometimes read numbers up to 99A before it "X"s out on me. I'm pretty sure my alternator is not that big and being an amateur I have no clue what to do to get it right. I would kind of like to know if I am facing an imminent electrical failure. Anybody got a solution for me?

 

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Reply #2 - Apr 27th, 2016 at 8:05am

RV7A BDU   Offline
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Is there no onboard diagnostics that can be performed? Something that I can direct my installer to? Removing that module will ground me for a long time.
 
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Reply #3 - Apr 27th, 2016 at 8:55am

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The quickest and most reliable test you can do is to unplug the D37 connector from the EMS module and short out pins 25 24 and 25 on the EMS. When you do this, the amps should read zero.

If they do read zero, you have a wiring issue. If they don't read zero, your EMS is broken.
« Last Edit: Apr 27th, 2016 at 9:48am by Dynon Support »  

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Reply #4 - Apr 28th, 2016 at 8:32am

RV7A BDU   Offline
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We ran the recommended test and it strangely read zero regardless. My electronics tech decided to try another shunt and that solved the problem. Replaced the shunt and now the ammeter is reading correctly.
I noticed discussion about shunts in other strings and it appears that this may be a problem with Dynon shunts.
 
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Reply #5 - Apr 28th, 2016 at 9:11am

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Hopefully the replacement AMPS shunt is the same characteristic as the Dynon Avionics AMPS shunt - for each 1A through the shunt, 1 mV is generated at the sense terminals.

This is the first actual failure of a shunt that we've heard of. We've replaced them for breaking the base, but never (that I'm aware of) for an actual failure of the shunt.

If it didn't get disposed of, can we arrange to get the defective shunt sent back to Dynon Avionics for analysis? Please email support AT dynonavionics DOT com.

RV7A BDU wrote on Apr 28th, 2016 at 8:32am:
We ran the recommended test and it strangely read zero regardless. My electronics tech decided to try another shunt and that solved the problem. Replaced the shunt and now the ammeter is reading correctly.
I noticed discussion about shunts in other strings and it appears that this may be a problem with Dynon shunts.

 

Please do not use Private Messaging on forum to contact. For private support:
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Reply #6 - Apr 30th, 2016 at 12:47pm

RV7A BDU   Offline
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The shunt was actually replaced with another Dynon shunt. Unfortunately, the old one has been thrown out and cannot be returned.
 
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Reply #7 - Jun 29th, 2017 at 5:46am

Randall   Offline
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I have two separate busses one for regular stuff and one for very important stuff that keeps the engine running. I would like to monitor the current draw from both busses. I see only one input available for reading amps. Can I wire the two shunts together to combine the outputs together and get a correct reading of total amps in use?

I have two shuts but they look a little different, is the output of various shunts the same or do they need to be a matched pair?

The shunts are mounted just prior to connection to the fuse blocks.

Randall
 
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Reply #8 - Jun 29th, 2017 at 4:19pm

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There's only one shunt input, and there's no way to wire them together without causing "bad things" to happen (that involved smoking wires and worse.) You can use the GRT current sensor, and our AFS division also has a similar sensor. The GRT sensor is already supported by SkyView. For the AFS one, we have the characterization for that internally here, but it hasn't yet been released publically. If you get the AFS sensor, let us know and we can get you a preview of the engine definition file that enables it to work with SkyView.
 

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